Custom Hoodie Manufacturer UK

Cut-and-sew hoodie manufacturing from 50 pieces

NO FUGAZI is a hoodie manufacturer based and managed in London, producing custom hoodies from 50 pieces at our own dedicated facility. A hoodie is a three-part garment, body, hood and rib, and all three are cut to your own block rather than decorated onto a ready-made blank: your GSM, loopback terry or brushed fleece, hood panel count, cuff and hem rib. Samples take 2-3 weeks, bulk runs 3-8 weeks after you approve your sample, and no tech pack is required to get a quote.

This is not print on demand. If you want a single hoodie with a logo on it, a print-on-demand service is the right tool for that job. This page is for a founder producing a real run.

A hoodie is three garments stitched into one. The body carries the fit, the hood has to stand rather than collapse on the back, and the rib at the cuff and hem is what stops the whole thing going shapeless after a month. None of that gets decided for you here. You set the GSM, whether the inside face stays looped or is brushed into fleece, how many panels the hood is built from, and how deep the rib sits.

We hold no stock garments, so nothing is pulled off a shelf and decorated. Patterns are drafted for your fit, graded across your size range, then cut, stitched and finished by hand. You do not need a tech pack to start: a sketch, a moodboard, or a hoodie you already wear is enough, and we take the pattern and fit development from there.

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Hoodie production at a glance

Hoodie manufacturing specification

These are standing terms rather than an estimate. Where a number is a range, the range is honest, and it moves with your fabric weight, your hood build and your finish.

Minimum order
50 piecesFabric weight and colourway count are what move it on a hoodie, because every extra colour needs its own dye batch. Send your design and we will confirm the number for yours.
Production method
Cut and sewHoodies are cut to a pattern built around your block, hood and rib depth. We hold no stock garments and never decorate ready-made blanks.
Sample lead time
2-3 weeksLoft, hood stand and cuff recovery cannot be judged from a drawing, so a hoodie reaches you first. Nothing is cut in bulk before you approve it.
Bulk lead time
3-8 weeks after sample approvalHeavyweight fleece and garment dyeing push it towards the longer end. Add shipping time to your destination.
Tech pack
Not requiredSend a sketch, a moodboard, or a hoodie you already wear. We draft the body pattern, the hood panels and the size grade in house, so no tech pack is required.
Fabric
French terry or brushed fleece, made per orderYou choose the GSM, whether the inside face stays looped or is brushed into fleece, and the cotton content. Custom dyeing and Pantone matching are available. Yarn comes from OEKO-TEX certified suppliers. Acrylic wool knitted to your gauge, and faux fur or mohair for trims.
Shrinkage
Pre-shrunk, 1–3% residualEvery cloth we cut is low-shrinkage and pre-shrunk before it reaches the cutting table, so a garment that fits at sample stage still fits after it has been washed. Residual movement is 1–3%, which is inside the tolerance a graded size chart already allows for.
Decoration
Embroidery, 3D puff, appliqué, chenille, screen print, high-density silicone, DTF, sublimation, vinyl, rhinestone, reflective, glow in the dark, acid washFleece has loft, so embroidery needs stabilising behind it and a print needs a smooth enough face to sit on. Placement is marked on the pattern before the panels are cut.
Branding
Woven and rubber labels, swing tags, custom cords, drawcord tips, eyelets and buttonsPrivate label or white label. Your name goes on the inside neck label, the hem tab, the cord tips and the eyelets, never ours.
Based
London, UKManaged from London; every hoodie is made at our own dedicated facility.
Quality control
4 stagesFour checkpoints: incoming fabric, in-line during sewing, post-production, then a final pre-shipment review. Rib recovery and hood panel symmetry are what get caught most often on a hoodie.
Payment
Bank transferTerms are set out in writing as part of your quote.
Shipping
WorldwideThe UK is our priority market. Hoodies also go out to the USA, Canada, Australia and Europe.
Packaging
Recyclable frosted bags, swing tags, woven labels and custom tissuePolybags are recyclable frosted as standard. Swing tags, tissue and box print are specified with the rest of the trim, not left to the end.
Get a hoodie quote on WhatsApp

A photo of a hoodie whose fit you already like is the fastest possible brief.

Fabric

Loopback and fleece are the same knit

The difference is one finishing step. French terry leaves the loops on the inside closed; brushed-back fleece cuts them open and naps them into a pile. That single choice is most of what separates a light hoodie from a heavy one.

  • Face — outside Back — loops left closed

    French terry (loopback)

    Loops left closed on the inside. Lighter, breathes, holds its shape — the everyday hoodie weight.

  • Face — outside Back — loops cut and napped

    Brushed-back fleece

    The same knit with the loops cut and brushed open. Warmer and softer, and it drapes heavier.

  • Face — outside Back — flat, no pile

    Single jersey

    One flat face, no pile. T-shirt weight — used for linings and lightweight layers.

Drawn in cross-section, face at the top. Weight is specified separately in GSM — the same knit is made in a range of weights.

One body, three colourways

The same hoodie, dyed three ways

One pattern, one print, three finishes. Choosing a colourway is a dye and wash decision, not a new sample — which is why a range costs less to add than a first piece does.

  • Acid-wash grey hoodie with a screen-printed front graphic

    Grey

  • Acid-wash burgundy hoodie, the same body and print as the grey and green

    Burgundy

  • Acid-wash green hoodie, the same body and print as the grey and burgundy

    Green

Choosing your hoodie fabric

Two decisions do most of the work: how heavy the fabric is, and how the inside face is finished. Everything else follows from those two answers.

Fabric weight, measured in GSM

GSM is grams per square metre, the standard measure of how heavy a knitted fabric is. It is the single biggest factor in how a hoodie feels, hangs and photographs.

240-280 GSM

How it feels
Light to midweight. Soft and drapey, sits close to the body and layers under a jacket without bulk.
Typically used for
Warmer-month drops, layering pieces, lighter tracksuit tops.

300-350 GSM

How it feels
The standard midweight. This is what most people picture when they picture a hoodie.
Typically used for
Core range staples, a first drop, everyday brand pieces.

380-420 GSM

How it feels
Heavyweight. Holds its shape, stands away from the body and makes a boxy block read the way it was drawn.
Typically used for
Premium streetwear, boxy fits, garment-dyed and washed pieces.

450 GSM and up

How it feels
Very heavy, closer to outerwear. Stiff at first, then breaks in and keeps its shape for years.
Typically used for
Statement pieces and limited runs.

Heavier fabric uses more yarn and adds weight to your shipment, so it changes your quote. If you are unsure, send us a hoodie whose weight you like and we will match it.

Loopback, french terry or brushed fleece

Loopback and brushed fleece start life as the same knit. Fleece is terry that has been brushed; loopback is terry left exactly as it came off the machine. That one finishing step is the whole difference.

French terry (loopback)

What it is
Knitted with loops on the inside face, left unbrushed.
How it wears
Breathable, dries quickly, drapes cleanly and keeps a crisp outer face. The usual choice at heavier weights. Less instantly soft than a brushed hoodie.

Brushed-back fleece

What it is
The same loop structure, brushed out into a soft nap.
How it wears
Warm, soft against the skin and fuller in the hand. The familiar high street hoodie feel. The nap can flatten and pill with wear.

Cotton-rich or blended

What it is
100% cotton against a cotton-polyester blend.
How it wears
Cotton takes garment dye and acid wash best and feels more natural. Blends resist shrinkage and hold printed colour. Sublimation needs a polyester-rich fabric to work at all.

Still deciding? Ask for both finishes on your sample. Sampling comes before bulk on every order, so it is the right point to settle it.

If you are still deciding on a weight, the hoodie GSM guide covers what 250 to 500 GSM each feel like, and what a hoodie costs to make explains how weight moves the price.

The decisions that define your hoodie

Six decisions separate a hoodie that hangs the way it was drawn from one that does not. A rough view on each is enough for us to price it accurately, and if you have no view at all, send a hoodie you already wear and we will read the answers off it.

The hoodie block: boxy or fitted

The block is the base pattern your hoodie is cut from. A boxy block is wide through the body with a shorter length and reads as modern streetwear. A fitted block follows the body and needs a lighter fabric to hang properly. Send a hoodie you already own and we can replicate or adjust its fit.

Shoulder seam and sleeve

A drop shoulder pushes the seam down the arm for the relaxed, oversized line, and on a hoodie it also changes where the sleeve meets the hood seam. A set-in shoulder holds the seam on the shoulder point and reads cleaner under a heavier fleece. Either way it rewrites the pattern, so it is settled before sampling rather than after.

Hood construction

Single layer or double layer. A double-layer hood uses two plies of fabric so it stands up instead of collapsing flat on the back. Hood depth, panel count and whether the inside is lined in a contrast fabric are all yours to set.

Ribbing at cuffs and hem

Rib holds the cuffs and hem in shape. Heavier rib with a little elastane recovers better and stops cuffs going baggy after a few wears. You can also run a flat hem with no rib at all for a longer, straighter line.

Drawcords, eyelets and tips

Flat cord or round cord, in a custom colour. Metal or embroidered eyelets. Metal or moulded tips. Small parts, but they are the first thing a customer touches, and some brands drop the cord entirely for a cleaner front.

Garment dyeing and acid wash

Dyeing or washing after the hoodie is made up gives a softer handle and a lived-in look. Acid wash produces a faded, mottled ground where every piece varies slightly. Both work best on cotton-rich fabric and are planned in before production, never added afterwards.

Labelled hoodie diagram identifying the hood, drawcord, shoulder, fabric, pocket, neck tape, ribbing, seam construction and customisation options.
Every part of a hoodie you can specify.

Embroidery, screen print, DTF or chenille

Four ways to put artwork on a hoodie, plus two finishes. The right one depends on the artwork and where it sits on the garment, not on personal preference.

Embroidery

How it reads
Raised and textured, stitched into the cloth. Reads as premium at small scale.
Best for
Chest logos, sleeve hits, back-neck and cuff marks.
Worth knowing
Fine detail and thin type get lost in thread, and gradients do not translate.

Screen print

How it reads
Flat, opaque ink laid onto the surface. Strong, consistent colour across a whole run.
Best for
Large front and back graphics in a small number of solid colours.
Worth knowing
Each colour is a separate screen, so colour count drives the work.

DTF (direct to film)

How it reads
A printed transfer heat-applied to the garment. Full colour, fine detail.
Best for
Photographic or multi-colour artwork, and runs with many different designs.
Worth knowing
Sits on the surface with a defined edge rather than sinking into the cloth.

Sublimation

How it reads
Dye bonded into the fibre, so there is no hand feel at all.
Best for
All-over prints and panel graphics.
Worth knowing
Needs polyester-rich fabric and light grounds. It cannot print white.

Chenille patch

How it reads
Thick, tufted patch with a varsity texture.
Best for
Big letters, collegiate and heritage looks.
Worth knowing
Wants scale. Small chenille loses the texture that made it worth doing.

Acid wash

How it reads
A finish rather than a graphic. The made-up garment is washed for a faded, mottled ground.
Best for
Vintage-look drops where variation is the point.
Worth knowing
Every piece comes out slightly different by design.

You can combine them. An embroidered chest mark with a screen-printed back graphic is a common hoodie spec, and custom labels, woven tags and custom trims sit alongside any of the above.

More ways to finish a hoodie

Everything below is available on a hoodie and specified at sampling, not added afterwards. What suits your artwork depends on the artwork, the cloth and where it sits.

Rhinestone and diamante

How it reads
Heat-set stones that catch the light and sit proud of the cloth. Physical rather than printed.
Best for
Wordmarks, small chest logos and back hits where the point is shine.
Worth knowing
It adds weight, and stones shed if a garment is tumble-dried. Care labelling matters more here than with any print.

Sublimation

How it reads
Dye taken into the fibre itself, so there is nothing sitting on the surface to crack or peel.
Best for
All-over prints, panel fades and anything edge-to-edge on polyester.
Worth knowing
Polyester only, and it cannot print white — the base cloth supplies every light tone, so it will not work on a dark ground.

High-density silicone print

How it reads
Thick, raised ink with a soft rubbery hand and a hard edge.
Best for
Bold logos, numbers and type that should feel deliberate under the hand.
Worth knowing
Holds a sharper edge than puff, but costs more per hit and does not suit fine detail.

Vinyl transfer

How it reads
Cut film heat-pressed onto the garment. Flat, solid and precise.
Best for
Names, numbers, one-offs and short runs where a screen would not pay for itself.
Worth knowing
It sits on top of the cloth, so across a large area it reads as a panel and breathes less than a print.

Reflective print and embroidery

How it reads
Retroreflective film or thread that stays flat in daylight and lights up under a headlight.
Best for
Outerwear, windbreakers and anything worn after dark.
Worth knowing
It reads as grey in daylight, so the design has to work as a grey mark first.

Glow in the dark

How it reads
Phosphorescent ink or thread — off-white by day, green glow once charged.
Best for
Back hits and sleeve details on pieces made for the evening.
Worth knowing
It has to be charged by light and the glow fades over minutes, not hours. It is an effect, not a feature.

Appliqué embroidery

How it reads
A cut fabric shape laid on and stitched down at the edge. Layered, with real depth.
Best for
Large chest and back logos, varsity lettering, anything that would be too dense to fill with thread.
Worth knowing
It needs simple shapes. Fine internal detail has to be embroidered on top or dropped.

3D puff embroidery

How it reads
Foam laid under the stitch so the mark stands off the surface.
Best for
Cap fronts and bold letterforms — the standard for a structured six-panel.
Worth knowing
It needs a minimum stitch width and simple outlines. Thin type collapses and small detail closes up.

DTG print

How it reads
Ink jetted straight into the cotton. Soft to the hand and photographic in detail.
Best for
Full-colour artwork, gradients and photographic prints, especially in small runs.
Worth knowing
Cotton only, and it needs a pre-treat. Colour sits brightest on a light ground and it is slower per piece than a screen.

Acid wash

How it reads
Bleach carried on pumice, so the colour breaks up in high-contrast mottling.
Best for
Hoodies, tees and sweats where the wash is the design.
Worth knowing
No two pieces come out identical. That is the look, but it means you cannot approve one piece and expect the run to match it exactly.

Vintage wash

How it reads
An even, softened fade — the garment reads as though it has already been worn in.
Best for
Pieces meant to look lived-in from the first wear.
Worth knowing
The wash takes the print down with the cloth, so artwork is set slightly heavier to survive it.

Enzyme wash

How it reads
Enzymes eat back the surface fibres, leaving a softer hand and a cleaner face.
Best for
Anything that should feel broken-in without looking faded, and knits prone to pilling.
Worth knowing
It removes a little weight, so the finished GSM lands slightly under the greige figure.

Sunfade

How it reads
A graduated fade running across the garment, as though it has been left in the sun.
Best for
Gradient effects on hoodies, tees and shells.
Worth knowing
It is directional, so panel orientation has to be fixed on the pattern before cutting or the gradient breaks at the seams.

Garment dye

How it reads
Dyed after it is made up, so the seams and stitching take the colour tonally.
Best for
Single-colour pieces with a soft, slightly uneven depth of colour.
Worth knowing
Colour varies between dye lots. Order the whole run in one lot, and expect a shade shift on a repeat.

Woven and rubber labels

How it reads
Woven damask or satin for the neck, moulded rubber or silicone for a hem tab or chest badge.
Best for
Inside neck, hem, sleeve and back-pocket branding.
Worth knowing
Rubber needs a simple shape and a minimum thickness. Very fine type in a woven label closes up below about 4mm.

Custom hardware

How it reads
Eyelets, drawcord tips, buttons, zip pullers and rivets, finished to your metal and engraved with your mark.
Best for
The details a customer touches first, where a stock trim gives a piece away.
Worth knowing
Custom hardware carries its own tooling lead time, so it is decided at sampling rather than added later.

Mohair and acrylic wool

How it reads
Mohair for a long, open, hairy face; acrylic wool knitted to your gauge for something denser.
Best for
Knitted panels, cardigans, collars and trims.
Worth knowing
Both are knitted to order rather than cut from stock cloth, which puts them at the longer end of the lead time.

How a hoodie is cut and sewn

A hoodie off an actual run, not a rendered mockup. Cut, stitched and finished by hand, then inspected at four stages before it was packed.

As seen on

As seen on Blanco. Che Lingo, Grace Ajilore and King Promise have also been seen in NO FUGAZI, and the brand has appeared in NME, Teen Vogue, the Crunchyroll Anime Awards and Retail Jeweller.

Yours starts as a pattern, not a blank: your block, your GSM, your hood build, your rib depth, your labels. Send what you have and we will quote it.

Get a Hoodie Quote on WhatsApp

From sketch to delivered hoodies

Six steps, and no tech pack needed to begin.

These are honest ranges, not best cases. A hoodie sample takes 2-3 weeks; the bulk run takes 3-8 weeks after you approve it, plus shipping time to you.

1. Send your hoodie idea

Send your hoodie idea

WhatsApp is quickest

A sketch, a moodboard, or a hoodie off your own peg that already hangs the way you want. Our questions come back about GSM, whether the inside face stays looped or gets brushed to fleece, how the hood is built and how deep the rib sits. Then we price it. If the design is only half-formed, our team takes it the rest of the way and handles the technical development.

  • MOQ is 50 pieces. Fabric weight and colourway count are what move it, so ask about yours

2. Body, hood and rib pattern

Body, hood and rib pattern

Your block, graded in proportion

With the quote agreed we cut a pattern: body width and length, where the shoulder seam lands, sleeve and cuff, hood panels, and rib depth at hem and wrist. Grading then scales it honestly. Hood depth is held in proportion to the body as the sizes climb, so an XL is the same hoodie as a small rather than every measurement stretched by the same amount.

  • Pattern cutting, hood development and full size grading included as standard

3. Fleece, trims and decoration

Fleece, trims and decoration

Sourced to your spec

We hold no stock, so the cloth is knitted or sourced for your order at the GSM and cotton content you settled on, and brushed to fleece if that is what you chose. Pantone matching and custom dyeing are available. Cords, eyelets, tips, inside labels and woven tags get specified now, and embroidery or print placement is marked on the pattern before a single panel is cut.

  • Pantone colour matching and custom-dyed fabrics available

4. Your hoodie sample

Your hoodie sample

2-3 Weeks

A hoodie arrives at your address before anything is committed to bulk. Wear it, wash it, pull the hood up and see whether it stands or collapses, check the cuffs still spring back, and put it on someone at the far end of your size range. A free sample of each design is included with every committed bulk order; a standalone sample without a bulk commitment is charged. One sample revision round is free, further revisions are chargeable, and changes to your quote are always free.

  • Nothing goes to bulk until you approve your sample

5. Bulk production

Bulk production

3-8 weeks once you sign off

The approved sample is the reference every piece in the run is measured against. Hoodies are cut, stitched and finished by hand at our own dedicated facility, with your labels, tags, cords and tips applied to spec.

  • 3-8 weeks after sample approval, plus shipping

6. Four inspections, then shipping

Four inspections, then shipping

Checked four times, shipped worldwide

Four inspections stand between the fabric arriving and the boxes leaving: incoming cloth, in-line while the garments are being sewn, post-production, and a final pre-shipment review. Your hoodies then ship worldwide, with the UK our priority market and deliveries to the USA, Canada, Australia and Europe.

  • Checked at four stages before anything leaves the factory

Finishing

Hoodie finishing, up close

Embroidery, hardware, print placement and the stitching around them, photographed on finished pieces rather than mocked up on a blank.

  • Gold embroidered chest logo on a black hoodie, with matching metal drawcord tips

    Embroidery

  • Close-up of a branded metal zip and the topstitching around a black garment pocket

    Hardware

  • Black long-sleeve tee with a screen-printed graphic across the chest and both sleeves

    Print

  • Black zip-through hoodie with a small embroidered chest mark

    Zip through

Threads, trims and hardware are specified per order, not picked off a stock list.

Hoodie manufacturing FAQs

The six questions founders raise most often before committing to a hoodie run.

What is your minimum order for custom hoodies?

Do you print onto blank hoodies?

What GSM should my hoodie be?

Should my hoodie be French terry or brushed fleece?

How do I stop the hood flopping forward?

How long does a custom hoodie order take?

As seen in

As seen on

  • Blanco wearing NO FUGAZIBlanco
  • Che Lingo wearing NO FUGAZIChe Lingo
  • King Promise wearing NO FUGAZIKing Promise
  • Grace Ajilore wearing NO FUGAZIGrace Ajilore

Ready to make your hoodie?

Send a sketch, a moodboard, or a hoodie you already wear. Tell us the GSM and the hood you want and we will quote it, build your sample first, and start the run only once you have approved it.

Get Your Hoodie Quote on WhatsApp