Choosing fabric for a custom garment
Fabric choice comes down to three things: weight in GSM, construction (knit or woven), and fibre content. GSM is grams per square metre and it tells you how much fabric sits in your hand, not how good it is. For streetwear, most hoodies land between 320 and 500 GSM in French terry or brushed-back fleece, most t-shirts between 140 and 240 GSM in single or heavyweight jersey, and outerwear shells use woven twill, ripstop or coated nylon rather than any knit. Get the weight and construction right for the silhouette you want, then match the decoration method to the surface, because a fabric that prints beautifully can embroider badly and the reverse is just as true.
What GSM actually means
GSM is grams per square metre. It measures density, not quality. A loosely spun 400 GSM fleece made from short-staple cotton will feel worse and last less time than a well made 320 GSM French terry. Weight tells you drape and structure. Fibre and yarn quality tell you how it feels and how long it survives.
Here is what the numbers translate to when you hold the fabric.
- 140 to 180 GSM single jersey. Light, drapes close to the body, slightly translucent in white and pastels. Summer tees, layering pieces.
- 180 to 220 GSM jersey. The standard weight most brands mean when they say a good tee. Holds a printed graphic without curling.
- 220 to 260 GSM heavyweight jersey. Stands away from the body, holds a boxy cut, opaque in every colour.
- 280 to 340 GSM French terry. Light hoodie or crewneck, wearable through spring and autumn, sits closer to the body.
- 350 to 450 GSM heavier terry or brushed-back fleece. The weight most people picture when they think premium hoodie. Structured shoulders, thick cuffs.
- 450 to 550 GSM heavy fleece. Very structured, almost outerwear. Warm, slow to dry, and it will show every seam pucker, so construction has to be right.
Above roughly 550 GSM you start fighting the fabric. Seams get bulky, cuffs stop recovering, and embroidery becomes harder to register cleanly. Weight for the sake of weight is a common first-order mistake.
French terry, fleece and jersey
All three are knits. They differ in what happens on the inside face.
French terry
Also called loopback. The face is a smooth flat knit. The inside is a field of uncut loops, which is where the name terry comes from. Those loops trap air, so it insulates, but because they are open they also breathe and move moisture. That is why French terry works year round: warm enough for a hoodie in autumn, breathable enough to wear in summer without overheating. It is made from cotton or a cotton and polyester blend, and it is the default for hoodies and crewnecks where you want structure without heat.
Brushed-back fleece
Start with the same loopback base, then run it through a brushing machine that breaks the loops open into a soft nap. That nap traps far more air, so it is noticeably warmer and softer against the skin. The trade is durability. Brushed fibres are cut fibres, and cut fibres migrate, so brushed-back fleece pills sooner than terry unless the yarn is good. It is the right pick for winter weight and for anything that needs to feel plush on first touch.
Single jersey
A single-knit structure with a smooth face and a purl-looking back. It is the standard t-shirt fabric. Light, stretchy across the body, and it naturally curls at raw edges, which is why jersey hems are always turned and stitched. Heavyweight jersey is the same construction at higher density, and it is what gives a boxy tee its shape instead of collapsing on the shoulder.
Knit versus woven
Knits are loops. Wovens are threads crossed at right angles. That single difference drives fit, sewing, decoration and cost.
| Knit | Woven | |
|---|---|---|
| Stretch | Stretches without elastane | Little to none unless elastane is added |
| Fit approach | Fabric accommodates the body | Pattern must accommodate the body |
| Edges | Curls, needs overlock or coverstitch | Frays, needs seam finishing or binding |
| Typical use | Hoodies, tees, joggers, tracksuits | Shells, jackets, cargo shorts, caps |
| Shrinkage risk | Higher, especially in length | Lower and more predictable |
| Pattern complexity | Fewer panels | More panels, more seams, more labour |
Practically: a woven jacket takes more pattern work and more operations than a hoodie of the same visual complexity. If you are pricing a first range, mixing two knit pieces with one woven piece is a sensible way to get variety without stacking difficulty.
Cotton and cotton-polyester blends
100 percent cotton is soft, breathable and takes dye deeply. It also shrinks more, wrinkles, dries slowly and loses shape in the cuffs and hem faster under repeat washing.
Adding polyester changes four things. It stabilises the fabric so it shrinks less and holds its dimensions. It speeds drying. It strengthens the yarn, so the fabric resists abrasion and wears through more slowly. It does not stop pilling. Polyester fibres are strong, so pills that do form tend to stay anchored to the surface rather than shedding the way they do on cotton. And it changes how colour behaves, because cotton and polyester take different dye classes, so a blend can read slightly heathered rather than flat.
- 100 percent cotton. Best hand feel, best for washes and vintage effects, highest shrink risk, ages fastest at stress points.
- 80 cotton / 20 polyester. The common hoodie blend. Keeps a cotton face, gains stability and abrasion resistance. A good default for a first hoodie run.
- 60 cotton / 40 polyester. More stable and quicker drying, slightly less soft, holds shape well over long wear.
- Cotton with 5 percent elastane. Used in fitted tees and activewear for recovery. Note that elastane degrades with high heat, so wash temperature matters more.
One caution: sublimation printing only bonds to polyester. If you want all-over sublimated graphics, the fabric decision is made for you before the design is. Choose the decoration and the fabric together, never in sequence.
Twill, ripstop and nylon shells
Outerwear is woven territory. The three you will meet most often behave very differently.
Twill is the diagonal weave you see in chinos and workwear. It is dense, opaque, drapes with weight and takes embroidery well because the structure supports the stitch. It is the standard for cargo shorts and structured caps, and it is used for twill-bodied varsity jackets, though the traditional varsity body is heavy melton wool or a wool-look equivalent. Heavier twill holds a crease and a sharp panel line, which is why it looks tailored where a knit looks casual.
Ripstop is a plain weave with a reinforcing thread woven in on a grid, usually visible as a faint square pattern. That grid stops a small tear spreading. It is light for its strength, which makes it right for windbreaker sets, packable layers and anything where weight matters more than hand feel.
Nylon shells are the smooth, slightly technical fabrics used on bombers, puffers and windbreakers. They can be coated or laminated for water resistance and are often paired with a lining and a fill. Nylon does not take screen print or embroidery the way cotton does, because the surface is slick and the fabric is thin. Heat-applied decoration, appliqué and carefully backed embroidery are the reliable routes.
If you are working on a jacket range, the construction and fill decisions matter as much as the shell. See custom puffer jackets, bomber jackets and varsity jackets for how each one is built.
Fabric and decoration together
The fabric is the substrate. Some methods need a smooth flat face, some need density to stitch into, some need a specific fibre entirely.
| Method | Works best on | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Screen print | Smooth jersey, flat-face terry | Brushed fleece nap breaks fine detail |
| High-density silicone | Jersey, terry, twill | Needs a stable surface or the raised edge cracks |
| Puff print | Mid to heavy jersey and terry | Over-thin jersey distorts under the puff |
| DTG | 100 percent cotton, higher cotton blends | Polyester-heavy blends dull the colour |
| DTF | Almost anything, including nylon and blends | Hand feel is a film, not ink in the fabric |
| Sublimation | Polyester and poly-rich fabric only | Will not bond to cotton at all |
| Embroidery | Terry, fleece, twill, heavy jersey | Light jersey puckers, nylon needs backing |
| 3D and puff embroidery | Twill, caps, heavy fleece | Needs a firm base to hold the foam shape |
| Chenille patches | Twill, wool-look bodies, heavy fleece | Too heavy for light jersey |
| Vinyl and reflective | Flat smooth faces | Nap and texture stop full adhesion |
Two rules save the most trouble. First, texture fights fine detail, so a brushed fleece will never hold a hairline print the way jersey does. Second, weight supports stitch, so if you want dense embroidery you need fabric that can carry it or the design will pull and pucker no matter how well it is digitised.
Shrinkage and pre-shrunk cloth
Cotton knits shrink because knitting stretches the yarn under tension and the first hot wash lets it relax back. Untreated cotton jersey can lose 5 to 7 percent, mostly in length. On a tee that is a size in body length. On a hoodie sleeve it is the difference between a cuff at the wrist and a cuff halfway up the forearm.
Pre-shrinking, sometimes called compacting or sanforising, does that relaxing in the mill before the fabric is cut. What remains is residual shrinkage, and it should be small and predictable. All fabric used at NO FUGAZI is low-shrinkage and pre-shrunk, with 1 to 3 percent residual shrinkage.
Why this matters commercially: patterns are graded against an expected shrink figure. If the figure is unknown, the grading is a guess, and the first bulk wash turns a consistent size run into a spread of sizes. Ask any manufacturer for the residual shrinkage number before sampling. If they cannot give one, they are not measuring it.
Pilling and judging quality by hand
Pilling is short loose fibres working to the surface, tangling and balling up. It is mostly a function of staple length. Long-staple cotton has fewer fibre ends per centimetre of yarn, so there is less to migrate. Short-staple cotton, cheap and common, pills quickly at the cuffs, underarms and anywhere that rubs.
You can judge a lot without a lab.
- Hold it to the light. Even, consistent knit structure with no thin patches. Blotchy translucency means uneven yarn.
- Stretch and release. Good fabric snaps back. If a stretched patch stays baggy, the recovery is poor and the garment will bag out at the elbows within a season.
- Rub the surface hard with your palm for ten seconds. If fuzz lifts immediately, it will pill.
- Check the inside of a fleece. Dense, even nap is good. Patchy nap with the base knit showing through means it was over-brushed to fake softness, which trades life for a good first impression.
- Look at the cuff and hem rib. This is where cheap garments fail first. A dense rib with elastane or a tight loop structure keeps its shape. A thin rib will be loose after a month.
Softness on the shop floor and softness after twenty washes are different measurements. A garment that feels extraordinary out of the bag and mediocre after a month was usually finished chemically rather than built well.
Picking fabric by garment
Hoodies and crewnecks
320 to 400 GSM French terry for a wearable year-round hoodie. 400 to 500 GSM brushed-back fleece for a winter piece with real presence. Below 300 GSM it reads as a light sweat rather than a hoodie. Detail on custom hoodies.
T-shirts
180 to 200 GSM single jersey for a standard fit tee. 220 to 240 GSM heavyweight jersey for a boxy, structured tee that sits off the shoulder and holds a drop-shoulder line. Heavyweight is the reason boxy tees look boxy rather than baggy. Detail on custom t-shirts.
Tracksuits
Match the hoodie and the bottoms in the same fabric and the same dye lot, or the top and bottom will read as slightly different colours in daylight. 320 to 400 GSM terry or fleece throughout is the safe combination. Detail on custom tracksuits and sweatpants and joggers.
Shorts
Terry or fleece at 280 to 350 GSM for sweat shorts. Cotton twill or ripstop for cargo and utility shapes. Detail on custom shorts.
Jackets
Heavy twill or a wool-look body with leather or PU sleeves for varsity. Nylon or polyester shell for bombers and windbreakers. Coated nylon or ripstop with a fill for puffers. Faux fur, mohair, acrylic wool and triple-dyed gradient faux fur are available where a piece calls for texture rather than a flat shell.
How NO FUGAZI handles fabric
NO FUGAZI is a custom clothing manufacturer based and managed in London, producing at its own dedicated facility. Pattern development, fit development, the technical work and decoration are handled in house. The fabrics in regular use are French terry, brushed-back fleece, single jersey, heavyweight jersey, twill, ripstop and nylon shells, all low-shrinkage and pre-shrunk at 1 to 3 percent residual shrinkage. Washes including acid, vintage, enzyme and sunfade are available, as are faux fur, mohair, acrylic wool and triple-dyed gradient faux fur. Quality control runs in four stages, and orders ship worldwide.
You do not need a tech pack to get a fabric recommendation. A sketch, a moodboard, reference photos or a garment you already own and want matched is enough to work from. If you do have a tech pack, it can be quoted straight from that. See starting without a tech pack.
The minimum order is 50 pieces, and an order can be placed at that minimum at any time, though pricing is most competitive at higher volumes. If you have several designs sitting around the 50 mark, that can usually be worked out depending on how many designs there are and how complex they are. Blank stock is not held, but blanks can be produced to order to custom measurements, and branding is not required.
The way to settle a fabric question properly is to feel it. The preferred route is deposit-credited sampling: you commit to the bulk run with a deposit, the sample is made first, and that deposit is credited towards the bulk total rather than being an extra cost. One free revision round is included, and further sample revisions are chargeable. A standalone sample with no bulk commitment is available as a fallback at a separate fee that is not credited to a later order. Sampling takes roughly 2 to 3 weeks and bulk roughly 3 to 8 weeks after sample approval, plus shipping, varying with queue, quantity and design.
Send the brief through the enquiry form or message WhatsApp on +44 7537 134878 with what you are making and the feel you are after, and you will get a fabric recommendation and a quote back. Quote revisions are free. If you are still working out the shape of the range, the process page and the free manufacturing guides cover the rest.
FAQ
Fabric questions, answered
What is terry fabric made of?
Terry is usually made from cotton or a cotton and polyester blend. The fibre content is only half the answer, because terry is defined by its construction rather than its material. It is a knit with uncut loops on one face, formed by feeding extra yarn during knitting so it stands proud of the base fabric. Those loops are what trap air and absorb moisture. The same loop structure appears in towels, which is why the name is shared.
Is terry material warm enough for winter?
French terry is moderately warm rather than genuinely cold-weather warm. The uncut loops trap air, which insulates, but they stay open so heat and moisture escape. That makes it comfortable across a wide temperature range without overheating. For real winter warmth, brushed-back fleece is the better choice, because brushing opens those loops into a dense nap that traps far more air. Terry at 400 GSM under a jacket handles a British winter fine.
Is terry fabric good for summer?
Yes, more than most people expect. The open loop structure lets air move through the fabric and pulls moisture off the skin rather than holding it against you, so it does not get clammy the way a brushed fleece does. Choose a lighter weight, around 280 to 320 GSM, and a cotton-rich composition. A light French terry crewneck or short set is a genuinely comfortable summer evening layer.
What is a good GSM for a hoodie?
For most streetwear brands, 320 to 400 GSM is the sweet spot. It gives structure in the shoulders and body, feels substantial in the hand, and stays wearable across spring and autumn rather than only in deep winter. Go to 400 to 500 GSM in brushed-back fleece for a heavier statement piece. Below 300 GSM the garment reads as a light sweatshirt. Above 550 GSM seams get bulky and cuffs stop recovering properly.
What fabric is best for t-shirts?
Cotton single jersey is the standard, and the weight decides the character. 180 to 200 GSM gives a normal fitted tee with good drape. 220 to 240 GSM heavyweight jersey gives a boxy structured tee that holds its shape off the shoulder. Combed ring-spun cotton feels noticeably better than open-end cotton at the same weight. Add polyester if you want less shrinkage and faster drying, or if you plan to sublimate.
Are hoodies or sweatshirts better?
They serve different purposes rather than one being better. A hoodie adds a hood and usually a pouch pocket, so it layers over more, covers more and reads more casual. A crewneck sweatshirt has a cleaner shoulder and neckline, sits better under a jacket, and gives a larger uninterrupted chest area for a graphic. For a first range, many brands produce both in the same fabric and weight so they read as one family.
How can you tell if a hoodie is good quality?
Check the cuff and hem rib first, because that is where cheap garments fail soonest. It should be dense and snap back when stretched. Look at the inside of the fleece: even nap is good, patchy nap with the knit showing through means it was over-brushed. Check that the shoulder and side seams sit straight and flat, and that stitching is even with no skipped stitches. Rub the surface hard for ten seconds. If fuzz lifts straight away, it will pill.
How long should a hoodie last?
A well made cotton or cotton-blend hoodie worn regularly should hold its shape and look for two to four years. What ends it is rarely the fabric panel. It is the cuffs and hem going loose, pilling at the underarms and forearms, or the drawcord eyelets tearing out. Longer-staple cotton, a blend with some polyester, a dense rib and washing cool inside out all extend that meaningfully.
Do hoodies stretch over time?
Yes, cotton knits relax with wear. The fabric elongates under body movement and gravity, most visibly in the body length, the cuffs and the hem. Poor recovery makes it permanent. A blend with polyester or a small amount of elastane in the rib holds its dimensions far better. Note that stretching out and shrinking work against each other, which is why a hot wash can appear to reverse the sag temporarily before doing longer-term damage.
What is the difference between French terry and terry knit?
They describe the same family of fabric, and the terms are often used interchangeably. Terry knit is the general category of knitted fabric with loops on one or both faces. French terry specifically means loops on the inside face only, with a smooth flat knit on the outside. That combination is what makes it work for apparel: a clean printable face and an insulating, breathable inside. Towelling terry, with loops on both sides, is a different application.
How much do custom garments shrink after washing?
It depends entirely on whether the fabric was pre-shrunk. Untreated cotton jersey can lose 5 to 7 percent, mostly in length, which is a size on a t-shirt. Pre-shrunk or compacted fabric does that relaxing at the mill instead, leaving only small residual shrinkage. All fabric used at NO FUGAZI is low-shrinkage and pre-shrunk with 1 to 3 percent residual shrinkage, and patterns are graded against that figure so the size run stays consistent after the first wash.
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