There is no single figure, and any article that hands you one is guessing at your brand rather than costing it. What you can know precisely is the cost structure: money goes on pattern and fit development, sampling, the bulk run, decoration, trims and packaging, freight and import charges, photography, a website, and then getting people to see it. Some of those costs are fixed per style and do not care whether you make fifty pieces or five hundred, and some scale with every unit, which is why two founders making what looks like the same hoodie can spend very differently. The useful move is to build your own estimate from real quotes against a real specification, and this article gives you the method.
In this article
- Why there is no single figure
- What the money goes on, and in what order
- Fixed per style against cost per unit
- The costs people forget entirely
- Why the same garment can cost very different amounts
- Can you start a clothing brand with no money?
- How to build your own estimate
- How much can you make from a clothing brand?
- Getting a real number for your own brand
Why there is no single figure
Cost is an output of decisions you have not made yet. How many styles, how many colourways, how wide a size range, what the fabric weighs, how much decoration sits on each piece, how many pieces you order and how they reach you. Change any one and the total moves, which is why the same question asked by two people has two honest answers. It is also why the figures quoted online are close to useless: they describe someone else's specification, on a garment you cannot inspect.
The number you actually need is your landed cost per piece, meaning everything it costs to have one saleable garment in your hands, plus the one-off costs of getting the range to exist at all. Both come from quotes against a written specification.
What the money goes on, and in what order
Spend arrives in a sequence, and the sequence matters more than the total, because it tells you what you have to fund first and what can wait until stock exists.
| Stage | What you are paying for | Fixed or per unit | Can it wait |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pattern and fit development | The block your garment is cut from, graded across sizes | Fixed per style | No |
| Sampling | A physical garment to approve, measure and correct | Fixed per style | No |
| Bulk production | Fabric, cutting, making, finishing, quality control | Per unit | No |
| Decoration | Screens burned or artwork digitised, then each placement run | Both | No |
| Trims and packaging | Woven labels, care labels, swing tags, drawcords, zips, polybags, cartons | Mostly per unit | Partly |
| Freight | Moving the run to you, priced by weight and volume | Per shipment | No |
| Import charges | Any duty and import VAT on arrival, plus a clearance fee | Per shipment | No |
| Photography | Images good enough to sell from, on the sizes you made | Fixed per drop | No |
| Website and payments | A shop, a domain, and the processor's cut of each sale | Fixed and ongoing | Some of it |
| Getting seen | Ads, seeding pieces to people who will wear them | Ongoing | Yes |
Two things follow. Almost everything is due before a single garment sells, which is the real constraint on a first run. And the last row, the one most founders think about first, is the only one you can genuinely start at zero and grow.
Fixed per style against cost per unit
Every cost in apparel belongs to one of two families, and confusing them is an expensive mistake for a first-time founder.
- Fixed per style. Pattern development, grading, the sample, screens burned for a print, artwork digitised for embroidery, and the setup to put a fabric on a machine. Paid once, whether you make the minimum or ten times it.
- Per unit. Fabric consumed, cutting, stitching, finishing, trims, labels, packaging, each decoration placement, and the share of freight that piece carries.
This is the whole reason a minimum order exists. Below a certain quantity the fixed costs are spread so thin that the setup is worth more than the garments. Our minimum order quantity page explains how that works in practice.
It also explains something counterintuitive. Doubling the quantity on one style is usually a smaller increase in total spend than adding a second style at the same quantity, because the second style brings a whole new set of fixed costs with it. Variety is the expensive choice. One or two silhouettes made properly is the cheaper and more informative first run, which the wider guide to starting a clothing brand in the UK goes into.
The costs people forget entirely
These are the ones that turn a budget that looked fine into a budget that was not.
- Import charges. Goods arriving into the UK can attract customs duty and import VAT, and the freight agent adds a clearance handling fee on top. Check your garment's commodity code and the current rate on GOV.UK rather than assuming.
- Trims and packaging. Woven labels, care labels, swing tags, polybags and cartons are small individually, are ordered in their own minimums, and carry their own lead time.
- A second sample round. One revision round is included here. Vague feedback burns it on a guess and then needs another. Precise feedback in centimetres is a cost control, not a formality.
- Photography. A shoot, models at more than one size, and someone to edit the images. This is the cost most often discovered a week before launch.
- Returns and postage out. Returned garments come back at your cost, are sometimes unsaleable, and are driven mostly by a bad size guide.
- The size split you got wrong. Unsold stock at the extremes of your range is money that never comes back, and it is usually the biggest single loss on a first run.
- The reorder. A repeat is not the same cost per piece as the first run. Pattern work and digitising are already paid, but fabric comes from a new lot and a smaller repeat spreads the remaining setup across fewer garments. Get it quoted.
Why the same garment can cost very different amounts
Two hoodies can look identical in a photograph and be different jobs entirely. What moves the cost, in rough order of impact:
- Fabric weight and quality. A heavyweight fleece consumes more cloth per garment than a light one, and yarn type changes the cost of the cloth at the same GSM. Our streetwear fabric guide covers what the weights mean.
- Construction. Panels, linings, a zip, a gusseted hood, taped seams, a coverstitched hem. Every extra operation is machine time on every single piece.
- Decoration. A one-colour chest print and a six-colour back print plus a sleeve embroidery are not comparable jobs. Each colour is a screen, each placement is a handling step.
- Trims. Custom woven labels, branded drawcord tips, engraved zip pullers and custom hardware all look small and all add up.
- Colourways. Each colour is a separate fabric lot and a separate setup, so three colourways of one style behave more like three styles than one.
- Quantity and size split. Quantity spreads the fixed costs. A sensible size split keeps the pieces saleable.
When you compare quotes from different suppliers, most of the gap you see is one of these, not a difference in how much anyone wants the work. Compare specifications first and totals second.
Can you start a clothing brand with no money?
It depends on what you mean by a clothing brand, and the honest answer splits in two.
Print on demand needs almost nothing
Print on demand moves the cost from before the sale to after it. Someone else holds a catalogue of blanks, prints one when an order comes in, and ships it. You can genuinely start with a design file and a shop.
What you get for that is a printed blank. You do not choose the fit, the fabric weight, the construction or the trims, and anyone else can sell the identical piece with different artwork. It is a reasonable way to test whether artwork sells. It is not a way to build a garment that is yours.
Cut and sew needs working capital
When a garment is made to your own pattern, materials and machine time are consumed before anything sells. Fabric is bought in a lot, cloth is cut, machines are set, people work. None of that waits for a customer, so a run has to be funded up front. There is no version of custom manufacturing where this is not true.
What you can do with very little
- Make one silhouette in one colourway across a tight size range.
- Keep decoration simple. One placement, few colours.
- Use a garment you already own as the fit reference instead of paying for development from nothing. No tech pack is needed to start, which our page on starting without a tech pack covers.
- Take pre-orders honestly, being clear the garment is being made and giving a realistic window.
- Do your own photography and shop build, and spend nothing on ads until something has sold.
That is the real meaning of starting with almost nothing. Not zero, but a deliberately small first commitment.
How to build your own estimate
This takes about a week and replaces every guessed figure on the internet with your own.
- Fix one specification. One garment, one fabric weight, one colourway, a decoration plan with placements in centimetres, a quantity and a size split. Write it down.
- Send the identical brief to three manufacturers. Not three different briefs. If the specs differ the quotes are not comparable. Our guide to finding a clothing manufacturer in the UK covers who to send it to and how to tell a factory from an agent.
- Ask what is not included. Trims, labels, packaging, decoration setup, sampling terms and freight terms. Ask specifically who pays for shipping and at what point the goods become yours.
- Add the costs no quote contains. Import duty and VAT, clearance handling, photography, website and domain, payment processing, and a reserve for returns.
- Divide by units. Total everything, divide by the number of saleable pieces, and you have your landed cost per piece.
- Stress test it. Work out what happens if only part of the run sells. If the brand only works at full sell-through, the quantity is too high.
- Then choose the quantity. Quantity is the last decision, not the first.
Quote revisions here are free, so changing quantity, fabric or decoration to see what each one does to the total is a normal part of the conversation.
How much can you make from a clothing brand?
The arithmetic is simple and the discipline is not. What you make is the margin on each piece, multiplied by how much of the run actually sells, minus the fixed costs of the drop. Three things decide it.
- Sell-through. The share of a run that sells at full price. Clearing a small run at full price usually earns more than discounting a bigger one to move it.
- Reorders. Second runs are where brands make money, because pattern development and digitising are already paid for. A first run that sells out is worth more than the profit on it, because it proves what to make again.
- Locked stock. Every unsold piece is cash sitting in a box. Wide size ranges and too many colourways are how it gets there.
Nobody can tell you what your brand will earn, because that depends on demand you have not tested. What you can do before committing is work out the smallest run that would still be worth making, and start there.
Getting a real number for your own brand
NO FUGAZI is a custom clothing manufacturer, based and managed in London, producing at our own dedicated facility. Pattern development, fit development, the technical work and the decoration are done in house, so a fit change reaches the people who can act on it rather than travelling down a chain of suppliers.
You do not need a tech pack to get a quote. A sketch, a moodboard, reference photos or a garment you already own and want changed is enough to price against. If you have a tech pack, we quote straight from it. The minimum order is 50 pieces, and if you want a few designs sitting around that number it can usually be worked out, depending on how many designs there are and how complex each one is.
On sampling, the route we prefer is deposit-credited. You commit to the bulk run with a deposit, the sample is made first, and there is no separate charge for the sampling because that deposit counts towards the bulk total. One revision round is included. A standalone sample without a bulk commitment is available at a separate fee, which is not credited to a later order. Sampling takes about 2 to 3 weeks, and bulk about 3 to 8 weeks after sample approval plus shipping, varying with queue, quantity and design. Quality control runs in four stages and we ship worldwide. Payment terms are set out in your quote before you commit.
Quote revisions are free, so send the brief and change it as often as you need to see what each decision does. Send yours through the enquiry form, read how the process runs end to end, or message us on WhatsApp on +44 7537 134878.
Questions
How much does it cost to start a clothing brand in the UK?
There is no single figure, because the total is set by decisions you control: how many styles, how many colourways, how wide a size range, what the fabric weighs, how much decoration each piece carries, and how many pieces you make. Budget for pattern and fit development, sampling, the bulk run, trims and packaging, freight and any import charges, photography and a website, then get quotes against one written specification.
How much do you need to start a clothing business?
Enough to pay for a full production run before any of it sells, plus everything around it. Add trims, labels and packaging, freight, any duty and import VAT, photography, a shop to sell from, and a reserve for the sizes you get wrong. Founders who fund only the garments run short once stock has arrived but cannot yet be photographed or listed.
Can I start a clothing brand with no money?
Not if garments are being made to your own pattern, because fabric and machine time are consumed before anything sells. Print on demand needs almost no money up front, but what you get is a printed blank in someone else's fit and fabric. The realistic middle is a deliberately small first commitment: one silhouette, one colourway, a tight size range, simple decoration and no ad spend until something sells.
How much can you make from a clothing brand?
It is the margin per piece multiplied by the share of the run that sells at full price, minus the fixed costs of the drop. Sell-through matters more than volume, so clearing a small run at full price usually beats discounting a larger one. Reorders are where brands actually earn, because pattern development and decoration setup have already been paid for.
Does ordering more pieces reduce the cost per piece?
Usually yes, because the fixed costs spread across more garments. Pattern development, grading, screens and digitising are paid once regardless of quantity, so each extra piece carries a smaller share. The limit is your cash and your sell-through. A larger run that sits unsold costs more than a smaller one that clears, so order to what you can realistically sell in a season.
Which costs do new clothing brands forget?
Import duty, import VAT and the clearance handling fee. Trims and packaging, which carry their own minimums and lead times. Photography good enough to sell from. Returns and outbound postage. A second sample round caused by vague feedback. And the largest one, unsold stock at the ends of the size range, which is cash that never comes back.
Related reading
- How to start a clothing brand in the UK
- Minimum order quantity explained
- How to find a clothing manufacturer in the UK
- Can you start a clothing brand with no money? – what genuinely costs nothing, and where spending becomes unavoidable
- How long does it take to start a clothing brand? – how long each stage really takes, and what runs in parallel
- How much does it cost to make a hoodie? – the cost drivers, and why a zip hoodie costs more than a pullover